Really Long Walks

"I knew Typo would make it" (Part 6 of 6) (Posted 21 November 2012, 05:01am)

It was the coldest night of the trip and I woke often because it was so chilly. I could hear Waldo snoring nearby, which at least let me know he was still alive. The alarm went off at 6:30 am and I looked up at a layer of frozen condensation lining the inside of my tent. There was fresh snow outside but mercifully only a few inches had fallen overnight. As expected my boots were frozen stiff. I had trouble getting them on despite having opened them wide the night before. I had the luxury of a dry pair of socks, which was just as well since the pair from the day before were also frozen solid and resembled overcooked pieces of bacon. We packed up quickly to make the most of our 11 hours of daylight. Canada was 12 miles away and then we would have to walk a further eight miles beyond the border to the nearest road at Manning Park Resort.

We had breakfast, put on our snowshoes and set off towards Woody Pass. The snow was reasonably thick but we were recharged and made good progress. I was pleased we had decided to stop when we did the night before. As we crossed Woody Pass the weather deteriorated and a whiteout suddenly surrounded us. I caught sight of a tree in the distance just before the weather closed in completely, and headed in that direction. Thankfully it lifted before we became too disoriented. We were generally able to find our way by sight, as on the previous day.

I was thirsty but my drink bottle had frozen solid overnight. Waldo still had a little water, which we shared. We came to a pass which I mistook for our highest point. I spotted some blurred footprints in the snow - left by Wolverine. It was reassuring to know that he had made it that far but the prints soon strayed from the trail. I wondered what the conditions were when he passed and if perhaps he had attempted it in the dark. I knew that Wolverine was travelling alone, without a GPS, and that he had been out for much longer than us. We were incredibly lucky again and the weather was mostly clear.

After another short climb we reached our highest point. The snow was thick at the top and there was no sign of the trail. I cut across in what I hoped was the right direction and thankfully found the trail. I was relieved to see Wolverine's tracks again, but the relief was short lived as they soon left the trail. They had become so random that I wondered if he was delirious. I was consumed by worry. I realized I was no longer concerned for my own safety - it was now all downhill to Canada - and that my anxiety had shifted to Wolverine. We descended the "Devil's Stairway" and once again found Wolverine's tracks. I could tell he was cutting the switchbacks and pictured him slipping and sliding down the steep valley. It went a long, long way down. I imagined him huddled somewhere needing our help. Should we be following his footprints and looking for him? I spoke my mind to Waldo but thankfully he had more sense than me. I couldn't wait to get to the border - not to finish my journey, but to search the register there for Wolverine's name.

Everyone knew the story of a hiker, Gourmet, who had broken his ankle just six miles from the border and been airlifted out. This was also on my mind. Almost exactly six miles from the border there was a log across the trail, just above knee height. As I stepped over it my snowshoe swiveled forward and the front poked straight into the snow, preventing my foot from planting flat. I had already shifted my weight over and couldn't stop myself from falling. I lay sprawled on the ground. My first thought was for my legs and ankles. If they were all right I would make it to the border. Thankfully my arms had taken most of the fall and I was left with only a torn jacket and bleeding elbow. We removed our snowshoes and Waldo took the lead. I had been leading for too long.

We continued down past the turn-off to the frozen Hopkins Lake. There were various tracks zigzagging over the trail, mostly animal tracks but perhaps Wolverine's tracks as well. We were at a lower elevation and the snow was thinner on the ground. We came across running water and filled up - it was a relief to drink. Three miles from the border we spotted the melted shape of a tent print in the snow under a tree. I made it into the shape of Wolverine's tent. Surely he was safe. I charged on ... so close now.

The last few miles flew by in a snowy blur. I rounded a corner and there it was - a break in the trees, the wooden northern terminus, the metal border monument and Canada beyond. I burst into tears. All of the challenges I had faced and overcome, but had been unable to process, caught up with me. In the final days I had been so intent on survival that I hadn't prepared myself for this moment. Suddenly I was standing at the end of the Pacific Crest Trail and I had walked every step from Mexico to Canada.

I went in search of the register and found it inside the metal border monument. It was soggy and falling apart but I found the most recent page and there they were, the words I had read so many times before but was never so pleased to see as then: "Wolverine, Detroit, MI." I remembered the morning I met Wolverine in Northern California. He was walking slower and shorter days, and I thought I probably wouldn't see him again. And now he had finished a day ahead of me, through the storm, on his own after we had lost him at Rainy Pass. I had underestimated him greatly.

Waldo arrived and we signed the register and took photos. It was around 2 pm and cold and we needed to keep moving to get to Manning Park before dark. It was a struggle to do a further eight miles now the trail was finished, but it was a good track and provided time to reflect. Waldo was having trouble with his new snow boots so slowed down and told me not to wait for him. I came to a road ... almost there ... one last bit of road walking. The only traffic I saw was a lone cyclist in the dying light.

I came to Manning Park Resort and found the rather grand entrance. I was covered in snow, half frozen, and had my snowshoes strapped to my backpack but I walked in anyway. I asked if there were other hikers there and was directed to a couple of cabins. I could see a large glowing window and walked towards it. On the other side was Astro's father. I had never met him but recognized him anyway. His face lit up and he rushed to the door. "Are you Typo?" They had been anxiously waiting for me all day. My friend Astro rushed out. His journey along the Trail had been a remarkable one and it was a miracle to see him safely in Canada. I was starting to break down and only managed to demand, "Where is Wolverine?"

Astro said Wolverine was in the cabin next door so I staggered over. Light streamed out of the window and I looked in. There, sitting reading, was Wolverine. Alive! I will never forget the look on his face. He threw what he was holding into the air and flew out through the door. We exchanged our stories. He had thought Heehaw and I were ahead of him the whole time, and had stumbled on, driven by fear. I told him we would have waited, of course we would have waited. Every emotion I was feeling was expressed in tears and I was a wreck, sobbing uncontrollably. Astro joined us and today, exactly a month later, I can still hear him saying, "Hell yeah, Typo made it, of course Typo made it, I knew Typo would make it."

Waldo, Astro, Wolverine and Typo at Manning Park Resort.

Throwing the Hail Mary (Part 5 of 6) (Posted 19 November 2012, 02:51am)

Typo.

Waldo's alarm went off at 5:30 am. We got up and packed, said goodbye to a half-awake Scallywag and strode out into the dawn. We had arranged to pick up two pairs of snowshoes at an address in Mazama. They were there waiting for us. The snow chains on the car had been noisy and cumbersome on the sealed road but we were thankful for them as it turned to gravel covered by snow and ice. There was a lot more snow at Hart's Pass than the day before.

I was nervous but ready. Five months and 22 days on trail had prepared me for this moment. We strapped the snowshoes to our backpacks and set off. Waldo had already walked the first 5 miles before turning back so he knew the way. He took off like a rocket and it was all I could do to keep him in sight. Everything was covered by a blanket of snow but it was possible to follow where the trail went because of depressions in the snow and cuttings in the trees. Whenever we were unsure we checked using GPS, which put us right on several occasions. It started to snow lightly and it was utterly beautiful.

As we climbed higher the snow was thicker, and we started sinking up to our knees. It was time to put the snowshoes on. They took some getting used to but I was hyper-focused and quickly made the necessary adjustments to my steps. We sunk less as we continued our slow but steady progress. It felt like wading through water and was exhausting, so we took turn about in the lead cutting the trail. It was hard enough walking at the back and I hardly felt refreshed before it was my turn to lead again. I slipped and fell often but it was into a soft bed of snow.

Every now and then we paused to stand and eat. I had filled my jacket pockets with food - half a pound of sliced salami in one pocket and a bag of mini Snickers bars in the other. We were burning through our energy rapidly, keeping warm and keeping moving. It was too cold to stop for any length of time so we had no option but to carry on. My water bottle was half frozen and my beard was streaked with ice. I felt so alive! Every detail around me was crisp and clear to an extent I had never experienced before.

For a few miles the trail descended to a lower elevation. There was less snow on the ground so we took off our snowshoes and picked up pace. We had slogged for nearly 15 miles and were both tiring. Our energy had dipped throughout the day, but thankfully never at the same time for both of us. We had been able to pull each other along. The weather had cleared and there were a few small patches of blue sky. We felt extremely lucky and kept moving to make miles while the weather allowed it.

We climbed up again to what we thought must be Woody Pass. It was a couple of miles beyond this point to the last pass over 7000 feet, and we decided to try and push on beyond there. We wanted to get it behind us. The trail went straight on the map so we did the same, but we soon came to a sign reading "Trail Abandoned". We could see no trace of the actual trail, and it had started to snow again, and darkness was approaching. We considered hunkering down. I checked my GPS and it showed we were actually a couple of miles before Woody Pass and had missed some switchbacks down the side of the mountain. We managed to find them and started to descend steeply.

The darkness came and we got our head lamps out. It was much harder to find the trail and we again discussed stopping. The trail started climbing once more and we didn't want to get caught out at a higher elevation. Waldo spotted a tiny patch of green on the map that overlapped the trail and we decided to make for it. We walked together through the darkness to the patch of trees. It was rocky and steep, so I suggested we just camp on the trail. It was the flattest place and the trees on either side provided a bit of shelter from the swirling snow. My last night on the trail would literally be camping on the trail.

I hadn't camped in snow before but Waldo knew what to do. We packed the snow down with our feet to make a flat space for our tents. I put on Heehaw's lucky gloves and a pair of dry socks from ED. I set up my cooker in the vestibule and heated some water for a warm drink and dinner. Heehaw had given me a dehydrated meal to which I added the hot water, then I stuffed it down my front to act as a hot water bottle while it cooked. I loosened the laces on my boots and opened them fully - a tip from Heehaw - since they would freeze overnight. Waldo had dinner nearby and set his alarm for another early start.

We were 12 miles from Canada. With visions of heavy snow overnight blocking the last pass, I wondered if we should have pushed on into the darkness. We were totally exhausted, however, and walking was much more dangerous with limited visibility. Overall, it felt right to have stopped and we had made the decision together. I put on every piece of clothing I had, got into my sleeping bag and cinched it up so just my nose was poking out. The temperature was well below freezing and we were in for a very, very cold night.

Waldo.

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Up and down, but not out (Part 4 of 6) (Posted 10 November 2012, 02:47am)

Typo, Scallywag and ED. Photo by Heehaw (Jason Phelps).

The rain continued into the night, but by morning it had eased and the puddles retreated. I had slept well and it felt good to have a few hours of sleep back in the bank for whatever challenges the trail still had in store. We packed up, taking care to be ready around the same time so we didn't have to wait for one another in the cold. We set out in light rain and soon passed a side trail along the Methow River that we had earlier identified as a bailout route. We were feeling alright so stayed on the main trail which began to climb to a higher elevation.

As we ascended there was more snow on the ground and the rain changed to sleet and then snow. ED was feeling the cold and walking slower than usual. Her hands became numb and the rain pants from the hardware store were disintegrating. When we got to the top of the climb we regrouped, but we were too wet and cold to hang around. We trudged on along an exposed ridge, whipped by a vicious wind that blew the snow around us. Being wet and under-dressed in these conditions was dangerous.

Heehaw and I discussed the options. He considered dashing ahead but we decided to stay together. We walked a little further to a small patch of trees and stopped there. My hands had also become numb and I got a fright when I couldn't open a ziplock bag. Thankfully Heehaw still had feeling in his hands so he got heating some water. ED was really suffering, shaking and in tears. Heehaw had spare gloves and a dry jacket which I helped ED into. When the water boiled we made warm drinks which we wrapped our hands around and then drank.

We were 7 miles from Harts Pass and the last road before Canada. We needed to get off the trail quickly and warm up properly. We knew there was a toilet there that we could shelter in, so decided to make a push for it. I walked along behind ED and told her stories to keep us both going. On and on we went, staying just warm enough because we were moving. Finally we arrived at Harts Pass. There were two hunters in a truck and I asked if they were going to Winthrop. They weren't, but they told us a car had just passed them going further up the pass. We knew this must have been Waldo, attempting to get back on the trail.

Heehaw had indicated that he was "done". He was the only one in our group with experience in snow and I wasn't prepared to continue on my own. We were just 30 miles from Canada but I could see it rapidly slipping through my fingers. Scallywag, ED and Heehaw headed for the shelter of the toilet. I left my backpack and ran up the road where Waldo had driven, hoping to catch him before he set off. He had seemed to know what he was doing and I realized he was my best chance to get to Canada. I saw a car coming towards me through the blizzard and I waved it down. It was Waldo. He had assessed the conditions and decided to turn back again because they were too severe. He was heading back to Winthrop for the night and offered us all a ride. We were elated, saved from the storm, and could not believe the timing.

We got a couple of rooms at a hotel in Winthrop and began the process of warming up and drying out all over again. Scallywag, Heehaw, Waldo and I headed out for dinner - ED stayed behind to warm up properly. When we four sat waiting for a table at the Mexican restaurant the waitress asked us if we were having a beard-growing competition. It took a while to convince her we were trying to walk from Mexico to Canada. ScrubRat, DoeEyes, DancingFeet, NotSoBad and CityFood were still in town and joined us. They had found snowshoes and planned to get back on trail at Harts Pass the following day. They knew of someone who could lend us snowshoes too. As we were preparing to leave, a hunter at the next table said he had seen Wolverine at Harts Pass that morning and given him a cup of coffee. Wolverine had said he was going alright and was attempting to push on to the border.

Heehaw's decision to get off the trail had made me worry - should I be getting off as well? ED had also decided to get off. Waldo was going to try to get back on the trail again at first light the following day. The weather didn't look good but it was hard to gauge since all of the forecasts were for towns at a much lower elevation than the mountains we were headed for. I was beginning to face the reality that I might be denied the finish by just 30 miles.

A couple of days before, when we were 60 miles from Canada, Heehaw had said we weren't quite close enough to "throw the Hail Mary". I felt that we were now, and I decided to give it one last push, with Waldo, and attempt to get through to the border in one shot. This was optimistic given the conditions and a bit of a gamble since I hadn't hiked with Waldo before. However, he was experienced in snow and we seemed to have similar physical strength and focus. Scallywag teamed up with the other five hikers who planned to start a little later and spend longer getting through.

Back at the hotel we prepared for the following day. Heehaw gave me his lucky gloves and a lot of valuable advice. Waldo put snow chains on his rental car and set his alarm for 5:30 am. Soon it was time to farewell Heehaw and ED. When the day began we had thought we would all finish the walk together, but we hugged goodbye and they wished me luck. It was past midnight and time to snatch a few hours' sleep.

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Crossing Cutthroat Pass (Part 3 of 6) (Posted 6 November 2012, 12:32am)

Scallywag concerntrating on every footstep.

I slept solidly but woke feeling nauseous with a headache and a sore stomach. I went back to sleep. I could hear the others getting ready so eventually I forced myself up. I packed up my things but couldn't stomach breakfast. Heehaw wasn't feeling well either. Perhaps it was the lake water from beside the road that we had been forced to drink a few days before. Or maybe it was eating a couple of meals in a public toilet. Whatever the cause it was terrible timing.

We walked to the center of town to hitch back to where we had left the trail. ED made a sign reading "PCT hikers to Rainy Pass". We got a ride for two right away. ED and I jumped in and Scallywag and Heehaw took over the sign, arranging to meet us at Rainy Pass. Our driver was a nice guy but aggressive on the road and it was a relief to arrive in one piece. We returned to the trailhead and the toilets that we had slept in two nights earlier. Wolverine had not added to our note so we figured that he had not turned back. There was, however, a message there from DoeEyes, ScrubRat, DancingFeet, NotsoBad and CityFood, who wrote that they gone further along the trail but were forced to turn back by the snow. We had just missed them. I was feeling nauseous again so spread a couple of black rubbish bags on the ground and lay down to wait for the other two.

I wondered what Heehaw would make of the news that the others had turned back from where we were about to go. I didn't have to wait long to find out because he soon arrived with Scallywag. They were being driven by another hiker, Waldo from the Czech Republic, who we knew of. Waldo had been 30 miles ahead of us on the trail and gotten off at a place called Harts Pass to obtain better gear after hitting thick snow. He was waiting for the new gear in Winthrop and had spotted Heehaw and Scallywag so given them a ride. They had seen the other group of hikers arriving in Winthrop and gotten the low down on the conditions from them. I was relieved to discover that Heehaw - the only one of us with experience in these conditions - was still willing to give it a go.

We said goodbye to Waldo and set off. It felt good to be back on the trail. We soon passed the 2600 mile marker so were now only 60 miles from Canada. There was less snow on the ground than we had expected. We raced along, steadily climbing up towards Cutthroat Pass. I soon crashed - having not eaten anything all day - but I was revived by a couple of bananas and some chocolate. As we climbed higher there was more snow on the ground but it wasn't yet enough to slow us down. We could see the footprints of the other group of hikers, going both ways, and we benefited from the path they had cut. The weather was still holding and we made it up to Cutthroat Pass where we stopped to rest and appreciate the stunning view of snowy mountains all around. I was feeling a bit better. Heehaw stood up, retched and then vomited but felt he felt able to carry on.

We continued along the ridge. In some places there were thick drifts of snow that we waded through, taking turns leading to break the trail. There was now only one set of footprints ahead of us - Wolverine's no doubt. Scallywag was starting to have trouble with his rain pants - part of an outfit he had bought for $11 at the hardware store in Winthrop. He taped them up as best he could. ED had a pair too and they were also starting to tear. This was cause for some concern as there were menacing clouds swirling about overhead and the forecast was grim.

Just on dark it began to rain and we came upon a campsite. We discussed our options then decided to continue to make a few more miles before the weather deteriorated. We walked on through increasingly heavy rain, down towards a campsite at a lower elevation. We arrived there around 9 pm and hastily made camp in what had become a real downpour. I got inside my tent, put on dry clothes on and dried everything else as best I could. I had a cold dinner of tortillas, cheese and salami and then settled in for the night. I was keeping my eyes on the growing puddles outside and realized that I had pitched my tent in a depression that was rapidly filling with water. I forced myself out and dashed around ripping out the pegs. I then dragged the tent to higher ground, roughly got the pegs back in and dived inside. These were trying conditions and everything that I had so carefully dried out in Winthrop was already damp. We had managed to knock off 15 miles, were camped 45 miles from Canada and one day into our planned four-day sprint to the finish.

Cutthroat Pass.

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Warming up in Winthrop (Part 2 of 6) (Posted 3 November 2012, 09:56pm)

ED hitching from Rainy Pass.

It was a rough night. It was extremely cold and the room felt like a concrete icebox. A mouse tormented us, scrambling over our gear and shredding toilet paper, presumably trying to make itself a nest. I guess it was feeling the cold too. We survived though and managed some sleep. Outside had been transformed into a winter wonderland by a thick layer of snow, the storm had passed and the sky was a bright blue. We packed up and headed back to the road to resume hitching.

It took us a while to get a ride - we were a bedraggled quartet. Finally a brother and sister stopped but they could only fit three of us. Heehaw volunteered to stay behind. As we were loading in, another vehicle stopped with space for one. ED, Scallywag and I squeezed into the back of the first vehicle, Heehaw went in the other, and we arranged to meet in the town of Winthrop. As we descended the snow disappeared and it was warm when we arrived in Winthrop, dressed in our down jackets, hats and gloves. There were places to stay, a supermarket and, importantly, a good outdoors outfitter. We had lunch and then Heehaw went off to find us accommodation. He found a cabin which sounded promising so we headed there to organize ourselves and dry out.

Our cabin had two double bedrooms, a bath, a laundry room, leather couches, a full kitchen and its own hot tub. We made phone calls, showered, did our laundry and hung up our tents and sleeping bags to dry. We headed off to the supermarket where we bought food for a feast and extra food for the trail. I had never seen the point of "fun-sized" Snickers bars but bought a few bags of them, since Heehaw had told me they were easy to eat even when frozen. I got some extra sliced salami and pop tarts - high energy food that is easy to eat without stopping. On the way back to the cabin I went to the outfitter and bought a pair of waterproof pants and a balaclava.

In the evening Heehaw cooked up a storm. He made a pot roast, a salad, steamed asparagus and macaroni and cheese. Talk around the table descended to American politics - being back in civilization we had caught talk about the second presidential debate the night before. After dinner we pored over a detailed map Heehaw had bought, working out a plan for the next few days. We planned distances and identified possible side trails to safety if the weather worsened again. We ate ice cream while we soaked in the hot tub. It was such a contrast to the night before - what a difference 24 hours can make! I stayed up adding photos to this blog, watching movies, reading the news - sucked in and swept away by access to the outside world. It was early morning by the time I got to bed, which was a mistake considering what we were planning to attempt over the coming days...

Heehaw in action.

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We're sleeping in a toilet (Part 1 of 6) (Posted 30 October 2012, 02:23am)

Heehaw crossing a log.

Over the next few weeks I will be posting my diary entries for the final six days that I spent on the trail. They begin with me at Bridge Creek campground at a height of 2108 feet. I had walked 2585 miles, but there were still 75 more to go. I was hiking with four Americans who I had met from time to time along the way. We were all up against deteriorating weather as we approached the final stages to the Canadian border.

It rained heavily during the night. In the morning I was woken by the sounds of Wolverine packing up. There was a break in the rain so I got up too. I rolled up my wet tent and went to have breakfast with ED, who had found her way into a derelict log cabin the night before. Scallywag arrived, followed by Heehaw and Wolverine.

I set off with Wolverine and Heehaw in light drizzle and we made steady progress towards Rainy Pass. After about 5 miles we came to Maple Creek. Heehaw got across but Wolverine was having trouble and decided to take off his shoes and ford it. I moved past him to cross, stepped onto a rock and slipped into the creek.

Wolverine grabbed me and didn't let go. I got back onto my feet, retrieved my hiking poles, thanked Wolverine and more carefully rock-hopped across. Heehaw and I sheltered in some trees while Wolverine forded the water. He waved us on so we kept moving. I had no idea that I wouldn't see him again for five days.

Heehaw and I made fast progress. It started to drizzle again and then the drizzle turned to snow. It was exciting, but Heehaw realized the danger. We were wet and cold, climbing to a higher elevation and the snow was getting thicker. By the time we reached Rainy Pass it was a blizzard and we were in serious need of shelter. A sign indicated a picnic area to the right and a trail head to the left. We made for the picnic area and found a block of four public toilets. We got inside the cleanest one and waited for Wolverine, ED and Scallywag. I dashed out and left a note on an information board, "Party in the bathrooms, appropriate dress required".

We changed into dry clothes and warmed up a bit. We didn't have much water so I put my jacket on and went back to a small lake beside the road. It was shallow and yellow and I had to get my feet wet to get any water. I had planned to take four litres but my hands were numb and useless after getting two and I knew I had to get warm quickly. I stumbled back. I was starting to realize how dangerous the conditions were. Heehaw made some food and we warmed up properly. We took turns sitting on the one seat - the toilet.

The others should have arrived by now, Wolverine at least. We needed to get somewhere to dry out and regroup. I wrote a note to leave and we dressed up again and headed out. When we were nearly at the road we heard voices. It was ED and Scallywag, but where the hell was Wolverine? We crossed the road to the trail head where we found two more toilets and one set of fresh footprints in the snow leading up the trail. Wolverine had presumably checked these toilets and assumed Heehaw and I had continued. He was out there on his own, climbing up to 7000 feet in a blizzard, chasing two people who were behind him.

Scallywag dropped his backpack and prepared to run along the trail after Wolverine. This was a hasty decision, it was getting dark and Scallywag was about to run along a slippery trial without his backpack. He raced off and I regretted it immediately. At least Wolverine had everything with him, Scallywag had nothing. ED, Heehaw and I settled down in the new block to toilets for an anxious wait. About an hour later Scallywag returned, out of breath and without Wolverine.

In case he returned, we left Wolverine a note, and a pen to add to it, and then went back to the road to hitch somewhere. It was almost dark and snow was blowing all around us. Half a dozen cars sped by and then the traffic ceased. We resigned ourselves to a night in the toilets and walked back to the trail head.

We settled in and made dinner. Scallywag and Heehaw took one of the two rooms. A game of paper-rock-scissors decided who would sleep next to the toilet. ED and I bunked down in the other. We cleaned the floor as best we could with toilet paper and spread out our ground sheets. We put on all of our clothes, got out our sleeping bags and went to bed. It was freezing and we were sleeping in a toilet but we made the best of it. My thoughts were with Wolverine, in a wet tent, in a snow storm, on his own at a higher elevation.